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Old 01-24-2010, 05:28 PM   #41 (permalink)
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true you can use a stock pilot jet, but they generaly seem to start and idle a bit better with a slightly larger pilot. I am not much help on ordering them online as I havent done that. I might bump the mains up a tad. If it had DJ main gets now. try getting 155-160 mikuni jets. I dont really like the needle being on the 4th clip down, and the air screw being out so far. I would like to see it on the 3rd clip down and the air screw out about 2,2.5 turns which in order to do the mains will need to be a tad richer
ok so im thinking this whole thing may have been a little problem. My buddy from UTI came home today and helped me brainstorm abut the problem. well we found that the choke was not closing all the way, meaning extra air was being let into the carbs and making it run lean. i put the choke cable back into the carb and sure enough the piece that slides open in the carb when the choke in engaged was not closing all the way. im thinking that may be my issue because the bike only spikes when the quad is at idol and only once its warmed up. if you think about it the bike needs the extra air when it first starts up but once it warms up thats when the idol would spike. when im riding and giving the bike gas its fine. i think at idol the bike just cant handle that much air coming in from the constant open choke? anyone agree??
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Old 01-26-2010, 10:14 PM   #42 (permalink)
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ok so im thinking this whole thing may have been a little problem. My buddy from UTI came home today and helped me brainstorm abut the problem. well we found that the choke was not closing all the way, meaning extra air was being let into the carbs and making it run lean. i put the choke cable back into the carb and sure enough the piece that slides open in the carb when the choke in engaged was not closing all the way. im thinking that may be my issue because the bike only spikes when the quad is at idol and only once its warmed up. if you think about it the bike needs the extra air when it first starts up but once it warms up thats when the idol would spike. when im riding and giving the bike gas its fine. i think at idol the bike just cant handle that much air coming in from the constant open choke? anyone agree??
i dont think i typed that rite at all but could it be my issue??
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Old 01-26-2010, 11:04 PM   #43 (permalink)
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i dont think i typed that rite at all but could it be my issue??
the choke opens a port that allows more fuel to be drawn from the float bowl at idle via the chocke jet in the left carb. It doesnt control air just fuel. A engine needs more fuel when cold than when warm. If it is sticking it could cause trouble no doubt but i dont feel it is yor problem. Not above the realm of possibilities though. I lost the thread for a few days
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Old 01-27-2010, 11:42 AM   #44 (permalink)
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the choke opens a port that allows more fuel to be drawn from the float bowl at idle via the chocke jet in the left carb. It doesnt control air just fuel. A engine needs more fuel when cold than when warm. If it is sticking it could cause trouble no doubt but i dont feel it is yor problem. Not above the realm of possibilities though. I lost the thread for a few days
ha no problem. i figured someone would answer ha. yea i was looking back at what i typed and realized that i was saying air instead of fuel. i usually post when im half dead at the end of the day haha. for now im thinking that im going to clean the entire thing really good and replace the gaskets for the float bowls (the one was kind of stuck when i took it off so im just going to replace them) and put it back together and see what happens. im debating to turn those air mixture screws in a half turn and have them 3 turns out like everyone says to. possibly all this is a few little problems that are just adding up to a big problem? the choke, the jelly in the carbs, the air mixture screws, and the needles were a little sticky as well. im thinking maybe if i correct all those issues then i could possibly be good? if not then ill pull it all back apart and start playing with jets and needle positions. what do you think about giving that a shot and also what i should do about the air screw positions?
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Old 01-27-2010, 01:48 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I think that will work fine. You can move the air screws if you want, it wont matter much. I think the goo in the floatbowl is probably a larger portion of the problem. Make sure to clean the jets well!
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Old 03-09-2010, 03:00 PM   #46 (permalink)
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hey everyone. i know its been a while since I've posted anything on here. the quad is still apart since i last posted. i feel guilty about it ha. but does anyone know where i can find a good explanation on how to clean the carbs? i have a lot of time this week so I'm looking to get everything back together and running.
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Old 03-09-2010, 05:29 PM   #47 (permalink)
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There should be a sticky here or over on raptor forum
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Old 03-09-2010, 06:41 PM   #48 (permalink)
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There should be a sticky here or over on raptor forum
i looked on there but all i can find is how to take them apart. i just dont want to mess anything up. from what i understand there are two ways to do it? soaking and spraying. if one is not better than the other i think i'll soak the jets in the cleaner over night and then just spray and wipe out everything else? i just don't want the cleaned to eat away at the rubber gaskets. any suggestions?
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:00 PM   #49 (permalink)
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When you disassymble them you are going to remove all of the rubber parts ie: seals, floats, vacuum diaphrams. you need to find some strands of wire to run uo in the passages to make sure they are clean as well as spraying them out with brakeclean and drying with compressed air. If you have some thicker wire 8g or so you can strip the insulation off and strip a strand of wire out of it and use that.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:58 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Ok were all cleaned up. it want's bad at all. took me less than an hour. moment of truth is just getting it back together and making sure the bike runs better than before. still nervous for that but we'll see what happens.
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