Great write up Tony....Thank you for sharing..
I figured id post this from my site there may be people that do not know
Head Stud And Head bolt tech
Im going to go over the importance of them and what to look for when installing them
1. Make sure all the head bolts are in perfect condition with clean, undamaged threads. Dirty or damaged threads can give false torque readings as well as decrease a bolt’s clamping force by as much as 50%! Wire brush all bolt threads, carefully inspect each one, and replace any that are nicked, deformed or worn. If a bolt doesn’t thread into a hole smoothly with finger force alone, there is a problem.
On aftermarket studs or bolts, never use a die to recut the threads. Most have “rolled” threads, which are stronger than standard threads. Use a thread chaser to clean up the threads.
2. Dirty or deformed hole threads in the case can reduce clamping force the same as dirty or damaged threads on the bolts. Run a bottoming tap down each bolt hole in the case and cylinder. The tops of the holes should also be chamfered so the uppermost threads won’t pull above the deck surface when the bolts are tightened
Finally, clean all holes to remove any debris. If the case or cylinder deck has been resurfaced and you are using studs rather than head bolts, chamfer the top of each hole
3. For head bolts that screw into blind holes, lightly lubricate the bolt threads as well as the underside of the bolt heads with engine oil. Make sure the bolts do not bottom out or hydrolock because of oil trapped in the blind hole
For head bolts that extend into a coolant jacket, coat the threads with a flexible sealer. Failure to coat the threads may allow coolant to leak past the bolt.
4. Check bolt lengths. Make sure you have the correct length bolts for the application and for each hole location (some holes require longer or shorter bolts than others). If a bolt is too short and only engages a few threads in the block, it may pull the threads out of the case.
Bolts should also be measured or compared to one another to check for stretch. Any bolt found to be stretched must be replaced because 1) it may be dangerously weak, 2) it won’t hold torque properly, and 3) it may bottom out when installed in a blind hole
5. When installing head bolts in aluminum , hardened steel washers must be used under the bolt heads to prevent galling of the soft aluminum and to help distribute the load. Make sure the washers are positioned with their rounded or chamfered side up, and that there is no debris or burrs under the washers.
6. Resurfacing a cylinder head decreases its overall height, so be sure to check bolt lengths to make sure they won’t bottom out in blind holes. If a bolt bottoms out, it will apply little or no clamping force on the head, which may allow the gasket to leak.
If a head has been milled and one or more head bolts may be dangerously close to bottoming out, the problem can be corrected by either using hardened steel washers under the bolts to raise them up, or by using a copper cylinder gasket shim or a new custom head gasket to restore proper head height.
7. Always look up the specified tightening sequence and recommended head bolt torque values for an engine before installing the head gasket. Never guess. Complete cylinder head torque specifications for your ride can be found in service manuals and torque tables published by gasket manufacturers.
8. Use an accurate torque wrench to tighten standard-type head bolts or studs in three to five incremental steps following the recommended sequence and torque specs for the application. Tightening the bolts down gradually creates an even clamping force on the gasket and reduces head distortion. It’s a good idea to double check the final torque readings on each head bolt to make sure none have been missed and that the bolts are retaining torque normally.
If a bolt is not coming up to normal torque or is not holding a reading, it means trouble. Either the bolt is stretching or the threads are pulling out of the case or cylinder.
9. If a head gasket requires retorquing , run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature (usually 10 to 15 minutes), then shut it off. Retighten each head bolt in the same sequence as before . however, don’t retorque the head bolts until the engine has cooled back down to room temperature.
Did You Know? In an engine with 4” cylinder bore and peak combustion pressures of around 1,100 psi, each cylinder exerts about 13,827 lbs. of pressure against the cylinder head at full throttle. In fact, head bolts may have to handle loads of more than 5 tons per bolt at wide-open throttle!
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Great write up Tony....Thank you for sharing..
So..... Lefty Loosey... Righty Tighty? Then torque down to "tight is tight" ?
Good info man. Thanks for sharing....
I can't stress the importance of this enough!! You really don't want to get a stud half way in and it get suck..not a good day..Great Post!
07 700 SE
03 660 Bone stock... Honest!
03/04 660 built from parts.
It's stock too of course...
85 FL350 Odyssey
86 V65 Magna
78 Mini Trail Z50
So much need to learn about this and it gives me interest!