ok so heres the story. i have a 2002 660R. Jetted air intake. Carbs. white bros exhaust. i think thats all the engine mods. i havent rode the bike since summer and i went to ride today. quad wouldn't start right away so i took the air filter out and sprayed some cab cleaner and it started right up. the bike has always ran on the warm side and idled high. ive had numerous mechanics look at the bike and no one has been able to give me an answer except the bike just runs hot. so anyway i let the bike warm up for like five mins. the quad was idling higher like always. as i went to take it out, i checked to make sure my gas was on and it was but i realized my headers were glowing cherry red. like as if i took a blow torch to them and was about to weld them. never have i seen something like that before. i checked the coolant and it was full. i let the bike cool down and checked the oil and oil was fine. i did both the coolant and oil after the last time i rode in the summer. does anyone have any ideas what it can be? if anyoe wants to email me rather than post to thread my email is jackedupjeep43@yahoo.com
02Raptor660R
I got mine from my local shop. they are just a mikuni jet. I think Jets r us is a good site but I havent ordered anything from them. How many clip positions are on the needles if you happened to look by chance?
the needles are accessed from the top. Take the screws out and remove the plastick top. under it will be a vacuum diaphram. remove it and inspest it for an cracking or tearing. Also take note when you pull the top off if the diaphram looks like it is not swelled ie not bulging out ect... Once you have that out of the way you will see a plastick piece in the center. use some needle nose pliers and pull it out. there is a sping under it. it may or may not come out with the plug. Under that is a shim/needle/another shim. I use the needle nose to pull the neelde and upper shim out. them if the lower shim doent come out. tip the carb over and they will come out. See how many clip positions there are and where the clip is. Also after that take a screw driver and screw the air screw in (bottom front of carb) screw them in until they just come up snug, not tight! counting the turns. unscrew them the same amount of turns and let me know what ya find.
this is what dynojet has posted on their website about pilot jets. i was looking on there to see if they would tell me what type i needed because jets r us gave me 8 different types of mikuni pilot jets and then the choice of genuine or OEM style (i think two of them look like mine so im still not sure what ones i need), but this is what they say:
This controls 100% of the engine idle and 25% of the transition onto the needle. Dynojet has found that the engine will idle with the standard pilot jet, with or without the air-box and with the slides and needles removed from the carburetors; therefore we never change the pilot jet. Doing so is proof that you are not using the other circuits correctly. Idle and off idle is controlled by the mixture screws and the float level which have the most positive effect below 4000 R.P.M. On some models the pilot air jet is changed to provide optimum fuel economy. Correct balancing of the carburetors also ensures a smooth idle.
This controls 100% of the engine idle and 25% of the transition onto the needle. Dynojet has found that the engine will idle with the standard pilot jet, with or without the air-box and with the slides and needles removed from the carburetors; therefore we never change the pilot jet. Doing so is proof that you are not using the other circuits correctly. Idle and off idle is controlled by the mixture screws and the float level which have the most positive effect below 4000 R.P.M. On some models the pilot air jet is changed to provide optimum fuel economy. Correct balancing of the carburetors also ensures a smooth idle.
true you can use a stock pilot jet, but they generaly seem to start and idle a bit better with a slightly larger pilot. I am not much help on ordering them online as I havent done that. I might bump the mains up a tad. If it had DJ main gets now. try getting 155-160 mikuni jets. I dont really like the needle being on the 4th clip down, and the air screw being out so far. I would like to see it on the 3rd clip down and the air screw out about 2,2.5 turns which in order to do the mains will need to be a tad richer
I think that will work fine. You can move the air screws if you want, it wont matter much. I think the goo in the floatbowl is probably a larger portion of the problem. Make sure to clean the jets well!
hey everyone. i know its been a while since I've posted anything on here. the quad is still apart since i last posted. i feel guilty about it ha. but does anyone know where i can find a good explanation on how to clean the carbs? i have a lot of time this week so I'm looking to get everything back together and running.
When you disassymble them you are going to remove all of the rubber parts ie: seals, floats, vacuum diaphrams. you need to find some strands of wire to run uo in the passages to make sure they are clean as well as spraying them out with brakeclean and drying with compressed air. If you have some thicker wire 8g or so you can strip the insulation off and strip a strand of wire out of it and use that.
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