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Axle 101 Installation of extended axle

18945 Views 8 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  jsanders347, 
I
QUOTE FROM CYPRUSRAPPY

Ok here is an installation of a Durablue +4 extended rear axle. I had a few friends who were useless with the instructions so I figured to post the installation step by step:

1) Get a monkey wrench and loosen the large nuts holding the axle in place. 2002 and up will require an allen key to remove the two small screws in the nut. Then, once you have loosened the nuts, jack up the bike so that the rear wheels are off the ground. Then, remove the rear tires so that you have access to the axle.


2)Then completely remove the nuts as in Figure A. After doing so, you will want to remove the right nut holding the hub in place as shown in Figure B. Once you have done that, the hub should slide right off. If not, gently knock it with a hammer evenly on all sides to loosen it:


3)Check out the difference of the two axles:


4)Remove the posi lock from the Extended axle. It should slide right off, if not evenly on all sides, tap it until it falls loose:


5)Slide the axle through the sproket hub. Before doing so, you might want to check your seals in your axle carrier to make sure they are intact:


6)Make sure you slide it all the way through so that the clamp touches the sproket hub as shown below:


7)This is how it looks from the other end:


8)Then slide on the posi lock as shown in figure D and then clasp the ring into place right under the posi lock. If you look closely, you will see the grove where it should go. Then tighten the allen key but make sure you dont tighten it too much. Then, make sure you add on all the spacers (figure E) that they give you to be able to get the +4:


9)Replace the hubs as you have removed them from the stock axle. Put back on your tires and your off:


BY the way, its easier when you have two people while doing all this so when you are loosening the nuts that hold the axle into place, the one guy can sit on the bike holding down the brakes.

Have fun and good luck.
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daddyrat
Nice write up Ironraptor04.

I would like to warn everybody that removing a older axles with rusted threads and splines can be day from hell. My carrier bearings crunched about a block from the trail head last Sunday on my 03 Raptor. Luckily I was done riding and on my way back.

Today I was off work and started to take the axle off. Every part of of the removal starting with the axle nuts was a major pain. Everything was rusted and stuck. I didn't think I was going to be able to get the brake rotor hub off. Heat, pound, swear, heat, pound, swear. I finally put together the right combination of swear words and got it off. I spent 6 hours doing this. My axle is still stuck on the carrier bearings and carrier. I am thinking of taking it somewhere in the morning and have the bearings torched out on one side.

A few years ago I had to replace the carrier bearing on my 01, it was the same story. I spent 2 days cutting off the stuck brake rotor hub with a cutting wheel.

I burned a perfectly good vacation day today on this crappy job.
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Wreckless
daddyrat said:
Nice write up Ironraptor04.

I would like to warn everybody that removing a older axles with rusted threads and splines can be day from hell. My carrier bearings crunched about a block from the trail head last Sunday on my 03 Raptor. Luckily I was done riding and on my way back.

Today I was off work and started to take the axle off. Every part of of the removal starting with the axle nuts was a major pain. Everything was rusted and stuck. I didn't think I was going to be able to get the brake rotor hub off. Heat, pound, swear, heat, pound, swear. I finally put together the right combination of swear words and got it off. I spent 6 hours doing this. My axle is still stuck on the carrier bearings and carrier. I am thinking of taking it somewhere in the morning and have the bearings torched out on one side.

A few years ago I had to replace the carrier bearing on my 01, it was the same story. I spent 2 days cutting off the stuck brake rotor hub with a cutting wheel.

I burned a perfectly good vacation day today on this crappy job.
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Sounds like a fun day off. I have been there. I dont envy you.. :lol:
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I
Thank you I copied the post from RF that Cyprusrappy had made for us. So be thanking him if he makes it on this site. But your welcome any way.



daddyrat said:
Nice write up Ironraptor04.

I would like to warn everybody that removing a older axles with rusted threads and splines can be day from hell. My carrier bearings crunched about a block from the trail head last Sunday on my 03 Raptor. Luckily I was done riding and on my way back.

Today I was off work and started to take the axle off. Every part of of the removal starting with the axle nuts was a major pain. Everything was rusted and stuck. I didn't think I was going to be able to get the brake rotor hub off. Heat, pound, swear, heat, pound, swear. I finally put together the right combination of swear words and got it off. I spent 6 hours doing this. My axle is still stuck on the carrier bearings and carrier. I am thinking of taking it somewhere in the morning and have the bearings torched out on one side.

A few years ago I had to replace the carrier bearing on my 01, it was the same story. I spent 2 days cutting off the stuck brake rotor hub with a cutting wheel.

I burned a perfectly good vacation day today on this crappy job.
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K
I have read this before. . . hehe

-kyle
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Dynomite
How tight is your posi-lock :hyper:
There is a small bit of rotational play in the sprocket and brake rotor on the Durablue axle (which I think is normal play) and some seem to think torquing the axle nut will stop that play. As I recall Durablue suggests the posi-lock should be snugged up tight and there is no suggestion that the rotational play is stopped by the torque of the posi-lock. As I recall the "Raptor 660 Manual" suggests first tightening 40 ft-lbs up to 170 ft-lbs BACK torque on the lock nut. I snugged up my posi-lock nut and did not come even close to the 40 ft-lbs required on a stock Raptor 660 axle nut :hail:

I think the 170 ft-lbs on a Raptor 700 axle nut is way too high and is merely an error taken from the original Raptor 660 manual referencing the lock nut BACK torque.
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LawShark
besides the twin axle nut is there any differences i should look for when doing this on my '08 700?
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Dynomite
LawShark said:
besides the twin axle nut is there any differences i should look for when doing this on my '08 700?
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If you are installing a Durablue axle, tighten the big Posi-Lock nut until it's snug (not tight). I think if this is an aftermarket axle, tighten the axle nut accordingly.

Original axle nuts on the 660 suggest inside nut 40 ft-lbs. Then while HOLDING that inside nut, tighten the outside lock nut to 140 ft-lbs. Then while HOLDING the outside lock nut BACK tighten the inside nut against the outside lock nut 170 ft-lbs. This will result in a TOTAL axle nut torque of LESS than the original 40 ft-lbs.

The 170 ft-lbs axle nut torque cited in the 700 service manual I think has to do with keeping a poorly designed 700 axle nut/conical washer in place and nothing to do with spline failure. If that high torque was to keep the sprocket/brake hub from rotating on the axle, you would not need a spline :lol:

I see some guys thinking the axle nut should be at 170 ft-lbs against the brake hub.....but they read the instructions wrong. Also, for a 700 I think the 170 ft-lbs is just plain way to high for the conical washer and SINGLE axle nut as the manual writer took the 660 final BACK torque and used that for the final axle nut torque on the 700 :lol:

See my additional comments in this thread regarding axle nut torque..... http://www.moddedraptor.com/community/raptor-700-maintenance/4555-help-axle-2.html
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J
i installed a g force axle last night and need some help. was cleaning up my mess from last night and i found a spacer with a grove that looks like a snap ring would sit in. i think i left it off because the intstructions said it was only to be used for blasters. but now im second guessing myself and i really dont wanna f this thing up as the warranty doesnt cover the lack of being able to follow directions. i put what they call a "large spacer" on the left side (sprocket side) and according to the directions thats all i need. if the other spacer was going to go anywhere it would have to be stuffed under the axle nut and sit on that snap ring on the brake rotor side right? did i install everything right? thanks in advance
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