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I'm mid process in changing my clutch. changes will definitely be updated when done. my sumptons were low end traction, but anytime 1/2 throttle in 2,3,4,5 gears it would rev up and no speed. time for a new clutch. no more letting people ride who dont own a manual quad :(

parts needed:
clutch kit
new clutch cable (not needed, but recommended)
clutch cover gasket.



-remove the clutch cable from the clutch lever near your rear food brake. and remove cable from bike.
-drain oil. what i did was have a large capacity oil change container that cause the oil from the case and the tank at the same time.
-remove oil filter. and wipe up any excess oil that drips.
-drain coolant. I decided to not try and reuse the coolant just in case i contaminated it taking it out. Pull the hose on the water pump (see below for location) and it will empty it into a catch container.
-remove water pump, easy to find, has 2 hoses that run to it, one goes right into the radiator. You do NOT have to take every bolt off the water pump, there are 2 that just hold the water pump together, and not to the case. also, make note where what bolt comes out of there on the waterpump, they are different sizes. place the water pump off to the side. take note that the drive gear IS PLASTIC. so when reinstalling be careful.
-up hidden behind the exhaust pipe, right to the upper right of the oil filter area there is an oil line, this uses a banjo bolt i think they are called. used in lots of cars for braking systems. this is 12mm. do NOT loose this bolt.
-start removing all the 8mm clutch cover bolts from the case/block. I dont know how many there are, but there are 3 or 4 on the bottom that are easiest to get to from the bottom of the quad. i just removed the rear'est bolts holding on the stock skidplate and let is angle down and i got to them with ease.
-once all the bolts are out (a few of them hold a bracket or some kind of cable management thing, make note of those) you can then begin to DOUBLE check that you got ALL the clutch cover screws out.
-after checking and double checking, Use a rubber mallot and kind of tap the cover to get it to separate from the case/block. it might take a little effort, but keep yourself from over doing it. You might have an issue getting it off cause of a metal loop of wire thats between the rear brake lever and the clutch. You can do one of 2 things. Remove the break assembly... OR just bend it out of the way. I did the latter.
-carefully remove the cover, and clean it of any gasket material. You will see why you need another gasket when you do this change.

my clutch smelled like bong resin.

ok, did more last night, clutch came in, but no gasket :( so hopefully finish tonight...

after you get the plates and the frictions off, there will be the last 2 that are seem to be stuck on... they are! dont try and force them off. there is a metal wire that wraps around the inner gear that holds them on, to take it off just rotate the inner gear thing, and watch the tire, both ends feed into the same hole 360deg around, and they just pop on, You can put them thru the underneath using a flat blade screwdriver or needle nose plires. once thats out, they will come off (plate and friction plate #2 they call it), then there are 2 more metal rings that need to come off an inspect. these are NOT included in the new clutch kit, do not loose them. one is beveled and labeled "outside" when you install it, make sure its the same way you removed it. then after getting that one off there is another flat ring, that should be inspected as well. Mine had gunk melted/attached to it. I just found a flat surface and a razor blade and cleaned the crud off. (PS. my clutch slippage problem... was cause friction plate #2, was worn so bad there was no friction material at all on one side of it, and the other side was very low as well... )

I reassembled the clutch plates like how I took them off, and now its just a matter of waiting for the gasket to come in (today i hope)



I went with an EBC clutch. for the clutch, clutch cable, and gasket It cost me just under 110 dollars with NYS tax incl.

...to be continued...
 

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Thanks for the writeup. Let me know if you have any problems editing it later. Oh and dont forget the pics.. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i'm at work now :) quad is at home... in garage.. where i WANT to be. hehehe

I'll do more pics, its just that I dont have much time on innerweb at home.
 

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No problem. If you need a place to host the pics let me know you can email them to me.. :beerchug:
 

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Ok I used the directions provided and things went very well. The only thing I forgot to do was soak the new fibers in oil so that delayed the process by a couple of hours. So make sure you remember to soak your new fibers in oil while you are taking everything apart! I have some pictures I took during the process to possibly help people out.

-remove the clutch cable from the clutch lever near your rear foot brake. I also removed the brake because I had to remove my nerf bar anyhow.


-drain oil. what i did was have a large capacity oil change container that cause the oil from the case and the tank at the same time.

-remove oil filter. and wipe up any excess oil that drips.

-drain coolant. I decided to not try and reuse the coolant just in case i contaminated it taking it out. Pull the hose on the water pump (see below for location) and it will empty it into a catch container.

-remove water pump, easy to find, has 2 hoses that run to it, one goes right into the radiator. You do NOT have to take every bolt off the water pump, there are 2 that just hold the water pump together, and not to the case. also, make note where what bolt comes out of there on the waterpump, they are different sizes. place the water pump off to the side. take note that the drive gear IS PLASTIC. so when reinstalling be careful.



-up hidden behind the exhaust pipe, right to the upper right of the oil filter area there is an oil line, this uses a banjo bolt i think they are called. used in lots of cars for braking systems. this is 12mm. do NOT loose this bolt.

-start removing all the 8mm clutch cover bolts from the case/block. I dont know how many there are, but there are 3 or 4 on the bottom that are easiest to get to from the bottom of the quad. i just removed the rear'est bolts holding on the stock skidplate and let is angle down and i got to them with ease.

-once all the bolts are out (a few of them hold a bracket or some kind of cable management thing, make note of those) you can then begin to DOUBLE check that you got ALL the clutch cover screws out.

-after checking and double checking, Use a rubber mallot and kind of tap the cover to get it to separate from the case/block. it might take a little effort, but keep yourself from over doing it. You might have an issue getting it off cause of a metal loop of wire thats between the rear brake lever and the clutch. You can do one of 2 things. Remove the brake assembly... OR just bend it out of the way.

-carefully remove the cover, and clean it of any gasket material. You will see why you need another gasket when you do this change.




after you get the plates and the frictions off, there will be the last 2 that are seem to be stuck on... they are! dont try and force them off. there is a metal wire that wraps around the inner gear that holds them on, to take it off just rotate the inner gear thing, and watch the tire, both ends feed into the same hole 360deg around, and they just pop on, You can put them thru the underneath using a flat blade screwdriver or needle nose plires. once thats out, they will come off (plate and friction plate #2 they call it), then there are 2 more metal rings that need to come off an inspect. these are NOT included in the new clutch kit, do not loose them. one is beveled and labeled "outside" when you install it, make sure its the same way you removed it. then after getting that one off there is another flat ring, that should be inspected as well. Mine had gunk melted/attached to it. I just found a flat surface and a razor blade and cleaned the crud off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
groan,
looks like I will be putting another one in the next few weeks.
apparently 22" razr11's and my fat 300+lb gut and riding it like a grizzly700 through mud and over/through trees :) is not a good thing .

I am going to be replacing my inner fiberes as well this time that are not included in the kit.

not sure i like these large 22" tires.
 

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HELP

I know this thread is old, but can anyone pick up these instructions where he left off. Like how tight the springs need to be compressed and how to get the clutch cover back on etc....

Thanks!
 

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The factory manual has instructions on how to remove and replace the clutch cover. I used that when I did my clutch recently. only pita part was getting the clutch arm slack right.
 

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Pita Part? Ok Ill check in the manual!

Thanks!
 

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I know this thread is old, but can anyone pick up these instructions where he left off. Like how tight the springs need to be compressed and how to get the clutch cover back on etc....

Thanks!
screws that hold the springs in get torqued to 5.8 ft/lbs. I personally pulled the snap ring off the top of the shaft that goes into the cover and removed the piece that says UP on it. Make sure the pull rod, the wobbly one that you have to get into the cover to engage with the pull lever shaft, has the grooves facing 9 o'clock or towards the rear of the quad. It will probably take a few tries, but once you get the pull rod in the cover correctly you will only be able to turn the pull lever shaft, the one that the UP piece connects to, maybe a quarter turn or so clockwise before it engages the teeth in the pull rod. Then you know you have the pull rod lined up.

Before re-installing the UP piece, turn that pull lever shaft all the way clockwise until it stops. Then re-install the UP piece so that the mark on it lines up with the mark on the case. I screwed this up the first time and pulled it all back apart to realize I had it right the first time and just forgot to remove the slack from the pull lever shaft. My clutch lever had next to no resistance because I was just turning the slack in the pull lever. I upgraded to HD springs and clutch, I got a DP Clutch.

Download the service manual if you haven't already and look it up. I personally found the clutch procedure to be pretty straight forward and it is yet another thing I would rather do than carrier bearings.
 

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ill never use a TQ wrench on clutch spring bolts ever again.
Why not? I'm getting ready to do my clutch this week.
Also, anyone have suggestion on best clutch kit / brand??? just a mod 3 quad for trail riding.
 

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Having just dug into my 700 I just bought I figured these instructions are still hard to follow... Especially the part about setting the clutch arm with the clutch pull rod...

When I get my parts back in, I will take some detailed pictures of HOW to set the arm. I followed the procedure by the book and after setting the cover and torquing it, I had no clutch....

basically, prior to setting cover on, the clutch arm has to be set way back, so that when it splines with the pull rod, it will set itself to proper adjustment. After tearing it apart again and practicing I nailed it time after time. I will add to this later
 

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DO NOT PAY ATTENTION TO THE SPRING IN THIS PHOTO!!!!

From what I can see, this is about where the clutch arm HAS to be be in order to engage the pull rod thats in the middle of the clutch basket. As I put the cover on, the rod engages the arm, moving the arm inward towards the engine. upon installment of the cover, the arm is almost perfectly aligned with the mark on the cover and mark on the clutch arm... Is this what eveybody is trying to say to do?

 

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I was going to install the cover today since I got my gaskets in, but I cut the o-ring that seat the check ball and spring in the cover. gotta order one now
 

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howd you make out on that - i just installed a new OEM clutch yesterday and my adjustment is still out, even with a new cable.
 
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