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I'm mid process in changing my clutch. changes will definitely be updated when done. my sumptons were low end traction, but anytime 1/2 throttle in 2,3,4,5 gears it would rev up and no speed. time for a new clutch. no more letting people ride who dont own a manual quad 
parts needed:
clutch kit
new clutch cable (not needed, but recommended)
clutch cover gasket.
-remove the clutch cable from the clutch lever near your rear food brake. and remove cable from bike.
-drain oil. what i did was have a large capacity oil change container that cause the oil from the case and the tank at the same time.
-remove oil filter. and wipe up any excess oil that drips.
-drain coolant. I decided to not try and reuse the coolant just in case i contaminated it taking it out. Pull the hose on the water pump (see below for location) and it will empty it into a catch container.
-remove water pump, easy to find, has 2 hoses that run to it, one goes right into the radiator. You do NOT have to take every bolt off the water pump, there are 2 that just hold the water pump together, and not to the case. also, make note where what bolt comes out of there on the waterpump, they are different sizes. place the water pump off to the side. take note that the drive gear IS PLASTIC. so when reinstalling be careful.
-up hidden behind the exhaust pipe, right to the upper right of the oil filter area there is an oil line, this uses a banjo bolt i think they are called. used in lots of cars for braking systems. this is 12mm. do NOT loose this bolt.
-start removing all the 8mm clutch cover bolts from the case/block. I dont know how many there are, but there are 3 or 4 on the bottom that are easiest to get to from the bottom of the quad. i just removed the rear'est bolts holding on the stock skidplate and let is angle down and i got to them with ease.
-once all the bolts are out (a few of them hold a bracket or some kind of cable management thing, make note of those) you can then begin to DOUBLE check that you got ALL the clutch cover screws out.
-after checking and double checking, Use a rubber mallot and kind of tap the cover to get it to separate from the case/block. it might take a little effort, but keep yourself from over doing it. You might have an issue getting it off cause of a metal loop of wire thats between the rear brake lever and the clutch. You can do one of 2 things. Remove the break assembly... OR just bend it out of the way. I did the latter.
-carefully remove the cover, and clean it of any gasket material. You will see why you need another gasket when you do this change.
my clutch smelled like bong resin.
ok, did more last night, clutch came in, but no gasket so hopefully finish tonight...
after you get the plates and the frictions off, there will be the last 2 that are seem to be stuck on... they are! dont try and force them off. there is a metal wire that wraps around the inner gear that holds them on, to take it off just rotate the inner gear thing, and watch the tire, both ends feed into the same hole 360deg around, and they just pop on, You can put them thru the underneath using a flat blade screwdriver or needle nose plires. once thats out, they will come off (plate and friction plate #2 they call it), then there are 2 more metal rings that need to come off an inspect. these are NOT included in the new clutch kit, do not loose them. one is beveled and labeled "outside" when you install it, make sure its the same way you removed it. then after getting that one off there is another flat ring, that should be inspected as well. Mine had gunk melted/attached to it. I just found a flat surface and a razor blade and cleaned the crud off. (PS. my clutch slippage problem... was cause friction plate #2, was worn so bad there was no friction material at all on one side of it, and the other side was very low as well... )
I reassembled the clutch plates like how I took them off, and now its just a matter of waiting for the gasket to come in (today i hope)
I went with an EBC clutch. for the clutch, clutch cable, and gasket It cost me just under 110 dollars with NYS tax incl.
...to be continued...
parts needed:
clutch kit
new clutch cable (not needed, but recommended)
clutch cover gasket.
-remove the clutch cable from the clutch lever near your rear food brake. and remove cable from bike.
-drain oil. what i did was have a large capacity oil change container that cause the oil from the case and the tank at the same time.
-remove oil filter. and wipe up any excess oil that drips.
-drain coolant. I decided to not try and reuse the coolant just in case i contaminated it taking it out. Pull the hose on the water pump (see below for location) and it will empty it into a catch container.
-remove water pump, easy to find, has 2 hoses that run to it, one goes right into the radiator. You do NOT have to take every bolt off the water pump, there are 2 that just hold the water pump together, and not to the case. also, make note where what bolt comes out of there on the waterpump, they are different sizes. place the water pump off to the side. take note that the drive gear IS PLASTIC. so when reinstalling be careful.
-up hidden behind the exhaust pipe, right to the upper right of the oil filter area there is an oil line, this uses a banjo bolt i think they are called. used in lots of cars for braking systems. this is 12mm. do NOT loose this bolt.
-start removing all the 8mm clutch cover bolts from the case/block. I dont know how many there are, but there are 3 or 4 on the bottom that are easiest to get to from the bottom of the quad. i just removed the rear'est bolts holding on the stock skidplate and let is angle down and i got to them with ease.
-once all the bolts are out (a few of them hold a bracket or some kind of cable management thing, make note of those) you can then begin to DOUBLE check that you got ALL the clutch cover screws out.
-after checking and double checking, Use a rubber mallot and kind of tap the cover to get it to separate from the case/block. it might take a little effort, but keep yourself from over doing it. You might have an issue getting it off cause of a metal loop of wire thats between the rear brake lever and the clutch. You can do one of 2 things. Remove the break assembly... OR just bend it out of the way. I did the latter.
-carefully remove the cover, and clean it of any gasket material. You will see why you need another gasket when you do this change.
my clutch smelled like bong resin.
ok, did more last night, clutch came in, but no gasket
so hopefully finish tonight...after you get the plates and the frictions off, there will be the last 2 that are seem to be stuck on... they are! dont try and force them off. there is a metal wire that wraps around the inner gear that holds them on, to take it off just rotate the inner gear thing, and watch the tire, both ends feed into the same hole 360deg around, and they just pop on, You can put them thru the underneath using a flat blade screwdriver or needle nose plires. once thats out, they will come off (plate and friction plate #2 they call it), then there are 2 more metal rings that need to come off an inspect. these are NOT included in the new clutch kit, do not loose them. one is beveled and labeled "outside" when you install it, make sure its the same way you removed it. then after getting that one off there is another flat ring, that should be inspected as well. Mine had gunk melted/attached to it. I just found a flat surface and a razor blade and cleaned the crud off. (PS. my clutch slippage problem... was cause friction plate #2, was worn so bad there was no friction material at all on one side of it, and the other side was very low as well... )
I reassembled the clutch plates like how I took them off, and now its just a matter of waiting for the gasket to come in (today i hope)
I went with an EBC clutch. for the clutch, clutch cable, and gasket It cost me just under 110 dollars with NYS tax incl.
...to be continued...
