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KUNG FU SAND PANDA
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I replaced my factory steering stem with this Houser + 1.25" Steering Stem, 1 1/8" Big Bar Clamp and ProTaper Contour Bars.


Here are some simple directions to follow when replacing your steering stem.

Tools needed:

3/8" Rachet
3/8" x 6" Extention
10 mm Socket
12 mm Socket
22 mm Socket
4 mm T-Handle wrench or Allen Head Wrench
Flat Head Screw Driver
Phillips Head Screw Driver
Brass Hammer

First thing you will need to do is to remove your seat.

Next using a 4 mm T-Handle wrench or Allen Head Wrench remove the (2) chrome screws that hold your front hood on. Unscrew and lift hood off.


Now you will need to remove your gas tank cover. Remove your gas cap and then remove the (2) small plastic body clips. Lift off gas tank cover and screw back on your gas cap.

Now you are ready to remove your front plastics. Disconnect the "White" connector and your overflow tube.

Remove the 10 mm middle bolt ONLY

Remove the 10 mm bolt under the front fender as shown.

Using your 4 mm T-Handle wrench and a 10 mm wrench/socket, remove the front fender bolt



Remove the (2) 10 mm bolts and spacers holding the front and rear plastics together. Once these bolts are removed, you can take off your front plastics.NOTE: BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOOSE THE SPACERS

Disconnect the "Grey" connector only from the top of your gas tank.

Remove the front 10 mm bolt, spacer and washer from the front of the gas tank. NOTE: BE CAREFULL NOT TO LOOSE THE SPACER WHEN REMOVING THE BOLTS

Remove the (2) plastic body clips and the (2) 10 mm bolts that hold the rear of the gas tank down.



Now slide your gas tank back and set on your air box.

Now you have access to the upper steering stem mount/bearings. (These are not realy bearings, thats just what Yamaha calls them). They are more like a hard plastic bushing. You will have to use a flat head screw driver and a brass hammer and flatten out the tabs before removing bolts. The (2) bolts will be 12 mm.

If you have play in the steering stem you will need to replace the bushings and oil seals. Here are the factory part numbers when replacing them. Steering bearing (2x) #1UV-23812-00-00 and Oil Seals (2x) #93112-31011-00 It is VERY important that when you are reassembling the bearings and seals that the seals are firmly secured in the grooves.

There is a large 22 mm nut and cotter pin that holds the pitman arm onto the bottom of the steering stem. Most aftermarket steering stems will come with a spacer and lock washer to replace the factory nut and cotter pin. Once you remove the nut from the bottom of the stem you will be able to slide the pitman arm off of the stem as you lift out the stem. When sliding your new stem through the bearing it is important that your handle bars are straight and you line backup the splines on the pitman arm.

Here are the part numbers of the lower bearing assembly that the steering stem goes through at the bottom of the frame if you need to replace it. Top Oil Seal (1x) #93102-25081-00, Bearing Holder (1x) #5GT-23872-00-00, Bearing (1x) #93306-20352-00, Lower Oil Seal (1x) #93102-25099-00.


Now all you have to do is reverse the process and put it all back together.

There are alot of different Bar Clamp systems out there so be sure when installing your bars and bar clamp that all of your control cables are long enough to reach at full lock turn to the right and left without binding. Depending on how big of a steering stem, bar clamp and bars you go with you may need to replace some of your controls so that they reach.

When using the Houser + 1.25" Steering Stem you can use all of your factory controls.

-Johnny
 

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KUNG FU SAND PANDA
Joined
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2,060 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Besides adding height, what other advantages does the new stem add?
Much stronger then the factory stem. If you look at the first picture showing the stem on top of the box, you will notice the extra support (gusset) at the neck (where the bar clamp mounts). Keep in mind that not all aftermarket steering stems are made this way. Most people replace the stock stem for two reasons. First, they roll their quad and the factory stem bends. Second, they replace the factory stem with an aftermarket stem to raise the bar heigth to make it more comfortable when riding.

-Johnny
 

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stock stems are prone to shear teeth from racing through bad ruts or maybe pegging a tree. That's why I replaced mine.

Great write up Johnny
 

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Thanks for the info. The pictures and " How to are Great". If the new stem is much stronger than stock, Doesn't this now create a new weak link with the factory components.(pittman arm) Or whatever the new stem attaches to?
 

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Thinking of getting the same stem, but does the CCP stabilizer still work with this stem?:eyebrow:
 

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I replaced my factory steering stem with this Houser + 1.25" Steering Stem, 1 1/8" Big Bar Clamp and ProTaper Contour Bars.


Here are some simple directions to follow when replacing your steering stem.

Tools needed:


3/8" Rachet
3/8" x 6" Extention
10 mm Socket
12 mm Socket
22 mm Socket
4 mm T-Handle wrench or Allen Head Wrench
Flat Head Screw Driver
Phillips Head Screw Driver
Brass Hammer

First thing you will need to do is to remove your seat.

Next using a 4 mm T-Handle wrench or Allen Head Wrench remove the (2) chrome screws that hold your front hood on. Unscrew and lift hood off.


Now you will need to remove your gas tank cover. Remove your gas cap and then remove the (2) small plastic body clips. Lift off gas tank cover and screw back on your gas cap.

Now you are ready to remove your front plastics. Disconnect the "White" connector and your overflow tube.

Remove the 10 mm middle bolt ONLY

Remove the 10 mm bolt under the front fender as shown.

Using your 4 mm T-Handle wrench and a 10 mm wrench/socket, remove the front fender bolt



Remove the (2) 10 mm bolts and spacers holding the front and rear plastics together. Once these bolts are removed, you can take off your front plastics.NOTE: BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOOSE THE SPACERS

Disconnect the "Grey" connector only from the top of your gas tank.

Remove the front 10 mm bolt, spacer and washer from the front of the gas tank. NOTE: BE CAREFULL NOT TO LOOSE THE SPACER WHEN REMOVING THE BOLTS

Remove the (2) plastic body clips and the (2) 10 mm bolts that hold the rear of the gas tank down.



Now slide your gas tank back and set on your air box.

Now you have access to the upper steering stem mount/bearings. (These are not realy bearings, thats just what Yamaha calls them). They are more like a hard plastic bushing. You will have to use a flat head screw driver and a brass hammer and flatten out the tabs before removing bolts. The (2) bolts will be 12 mm.

If you have play in the steering stem you will need to replace the bushings and oil seals. Here are the factory part numbers when replacing them. Steering bearing (2x) #1UV-23812-00-00 and Oil Seals (2x) #93112-31011-00 It is VERY important that when you are reassembling the bearings and seals that the seals are firmly secured in the grooves.

There is a large 22 mm nut and cotter pin that holds the pitman arm onto the bottom of the steering stem. Most aftermarket steering stems will come with a spacer and lock washer to replace the factory nut and cotter pin. Once you remove the nut from the bottom of the stem you will be able to slide the pitman arm off of the stem as you lift out the stem. When sliding your new stem through the bearing it is important that your handle bars are straight and you line backup the splines on the pitman arm.

Here are the part numbers of the lower bearing assembly that the steering stem goes through at the bottom of the frame if you need to replace it. Top Oil Seal (1x) #93102-25081-00, Bearing Holder (1x) #5GT-23872-00-00, Bearing (1x) #93306-20352-00, Lower Oil Seal (1x) #93102-25099-00.


Now all you have to do is reverse the process and put it all back together.

There are alot of different Bar Clamp systems out there so be sure when installing your bars and bar clamp that all of your control cables are long enough to reach at full lock turn to the right and left without binding. Depending on how big of a steering stem, bar clamp and bars you go with you may need to replace some of your controls so that they reach.

When using the Houser + 1.25" Steering Stem you can use all of your factory controls.

-Johnny
Great post. Question thou. I've done everything but when I pull on the bars there is some play. I can't tighten it any more. Any suggestions?
 
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