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KUNG FU SAND PANDA
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Normally it is nice to share with other Raptor owners mods I have done to my Raptor but this one is kinda "bitter sweet". To Raptor owners that service their own quads please read this entire thread about "How To ... "NOT" Strip Your Oil Drain Plug" very carefully. Hopefully my mistake will save you a little money, but more importantly it will save you the aggrevation of trying to repair the threads once they are damaged.

The threads to the bottom oil drain plug are aluminum and are soft. I don't care what the manual says about using a torque wrench and torquing it down to that spec, all you need is a 17 mm wrench or socket to remove and reinstall the drain plug.

This is where people make a mistake and over tighten the drain plug, stripping/pulling the threads that hold the drain plug tight.

What you should do is...

Always replace your Oil Drain Plug Gasket. Below are a few pictures of what a old drain plug gasket compared to a new drain plug gasket should look like. One of the problems I believe is, by not replacing the gasket it will force you to "overtighten" the drain plug causing you to strip/pull the thread.

You can pick up the oil drain plug gasket at your local Yamaha dealership using part #214-11198-01-00

THE OLD DRAIN PLUG GASKET IS ON THE LEFT, NEW GASKET ON THE RIGHT







When reinstalling your bottom drain plug you should "HAND" tighten the drain plug until it stops. If you have trouble trying to hand tighten the drain plug then, use your wrench to tighten it down until it is snug.

Once the drain plug is snug all you need to do is go maybe a 1/4 turn or so more and your done. You do not need to crank down until you can't turn it anymore before its tight.

Below are a couple of pictures of what an "over tighten" drain plug looks like. :banghead:




Fortuantely for us Raptor owners there are a few alternatives that can help you out.

Below is a "Nylon" drain plug that one of our members "BIGBIRD" manufactured as a solution to this problem. By using a "Nylon drain plug you will strip the plastic drain plug before the threads in the engine case if you over tighten it.

Below is a picture of the one I installed in my Raptor. You will notice that I put a black mark on it so I can see if the drain plug loosens up on me. The ONLY reason that I did this is because it did not fully tighten up for me when I installed it, not because the nylon drain plug didn't work. I believe the reason for this is because the threads are damaged more then they appeared and I need to install a "Heli-Coil" to correct the problem.


Another option is to purchase a "Fram SureDrain" kit. This oil drain plug kit will replace your factory drain plug. The nice thing about this product is that you will not have to ever remove your drain plug again to change the oil. Once you hook up the attachment there is a valve that is depressed and oil will drain from your engine case.

The only "Concern" I have heard from other Raptor owners about this product is that it will hang down lower than the factory drain plug. This may be a problem if you are running a bottom skid plate of if you ride in rough terrain. The concern is that you might hit it something causing damage to the drain plug or possibly the engine case. Hopefully we will have a few members post some pictures and give us some feedback on this issue.

Below are a few pictures of what the kit looks like and the Fram Part number is #SD-2 M14 x 1.5




I hope this "How To" will help prevent you guys of going through the aggrevation and trouble of dealing with a "Stripped" oil drain plug.

I will add more details of how to install a "Heli-Coil" to repair a damaged oil drain plug threads.

Modded Raptor would like to thank JAMIE700R, BIGBIRD and JOHNNY BAJA
 

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one tip is to only use a palm ratchet or a smaller 1/4 in drive ratchet to reduce the torque u are able to apply to it,....for those who do not own torque wrenches
 

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Just wanted to add this from my other thread,
I changed my oil today and had a few gaskets laying around so i thought id do a test. The 18ft lbs torque is dead on IF YOU REPLACE THE GASKET. The gasket begins to crush and seal at about 10ft-lbs and continues to crush and get snug at 18ft-lbs. I removed it, put on a new one and used a ratchet and cranked it till it was tight then measured it with the torque wrench and it was dead at 18ft-lbs. You don't need a torque wrench. You can tell without a doubt when the gasket is fully tightened with just a ratchet. You'll feel the gasket begin to crush, continue to tightened until it stops. Thats it your done. The gaskets range in price from .60 to.90.ea
I would replace the gasket at every oil change to avoid any problems.
 

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Hey whats up, been really busy lately and just not enough time in the day to be hangin around as much as I would like to. Hopefully this will change soon.

Thanks for the mention of the Teflon plugs that I made Johnny Baja.

These plugs will not (that I know of ) help if your threads have already been stripped. They are designed to keep you from stripping the threads in the first place. If you have already stripped the threads I would say get a helicoil or an oversize plug from autozone or something. If you want one there are a few members that have them and bought more than one so maybe you can find some. I sold all the ones I made except the one that is in my quad right now and it has held up fine for a few months now. Good luck
 

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Actually......the SD-2 does not extend below my Pro Armour. My Pro Armour has access for the oil drain plug which the SD-2 is protected by the Pro Armour . Now....without a skid plate then the SD-2 will extend down maybe 1/2 inch or a bit more than the standard plug.





Also...using the SD-2 is not a cure...rather a prevention...meaning after you have stripped the plug and replaced threads with heli-coil (steel I think) it is less likely that you will strip the heli-coil threads :coolshades: .
 

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I have a magnetic drain plug in mine and have had it in there for a couple of oil changes now. One thing that I do like about it is instead of having two different sizes of sockets to change the oil now I only need one, as the mag drain plug is the same size as the oil tank. And you would be supprised how much clutch material this thing catches. I like it. :thumb:
 

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I have a magnetic drain plug in mine and have had it in there for a couple of oil changes now. One thing that I do like about it is instead of having two different sizes of sockets to change the oil now I only need one, as the mag drain plug is the same size as the oil tank. And you would be supprised how much clutch material this thing catches. I like it. :thumb:

Changed my oil for the first time today and installed the new magnetic plug. I already like the new plug being the same size as the one on the oil tank plug. So far so good. Me like! :thumb:
 

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Normally it is nice to share with other Raptor owners mods I have done to my Raptor but this one is kinda "bitter sweet". To Raptor owners that service their own quads please read this entire thread about "How To ... "NOT" Strip Your Oil Drain Plug" very carefully. Hopefully my mistake will save you a little money, but more importantly it will save you the aggrevation of trying to repair the threads once they are damaged.

The threads to the bottom oil drain plug are aluminum and are soft. I don't care what the manual says about using a torque wrench and torquing it down to that spec, all you need is a 17 mm wrench or socket to remove and reinstall the drain plug.

This is where people make a mistake and over tighten the drain plug, stripping/pulling the threads that hold the drain plug tight.

What you should do is...

Always replace your Oil Drain Plug Gasket. Below are a few pictures of what a old drain plug gasket compared to a new drain plug gasket should look like. One of the problems I believe is, by not replacing the gasket it will force you to "overtighten" the drain plug causing you to strip/pull the thread.

You can pick up the oil drain plug gasket at your local Yamaha dealership using part #214-11198-01-00

THE OLD DRAIN PLUG GASKET IS ON THE LEFT, NEW GASKET ON THE RIGHT







When reinstalling your bottom drain plug you should "HAND" tighten the drain plug until it stops. If you have trouble trying to hand tighten the drain plug then, use your wrench to tighten it down until it is snug.

Once the drain plug is snug all you need to do is go maybe a 1/4 turn or so more and your done. You do not need to crank down until you can't turn it anymore before its tight.

Below are a couple of pictures of what an "over tighten" drain plug looks like. :banghead:




Fortuantely for us Raptor owners there are a few alternatives that can help you out.

Below is a "Nylon" drain plug that one of our members "BIGBIRD" manufactured as a solution to this problem. By using a "Nylon drain plug you will strip the plastic drain plug before the threads in the engine case if you over tighten it.

Below is a picture of the one I installed in my Raptor. You will notice that I put a black mark on it so I can see if the drain plug loosens up on me. The ONLY reason that I did this is because it did not fully tighten up for me when I installed it, not because the nylon drain plug didn't work. I believe the reason for this is because the threads are damaged more then they appeared and I need to install a "Heli-Coil" to correct the problem.


Another option is to purchase a "Fram SureDrain" kit. This oil drain plug kit will replace your factory drain plug. The nice thing about this product is that you will not have to ever remove your drain plug again to change the oil. Once you hook up the attachment there is a valve that is depressed and oil will drain from your engine case.

The only "Concern" I have heard from other Raptor owners about this product is that it will hang down lower than the factory drain plug. This may be a problem if you are running a bottom skid plate of if you ride in rough terrain. The concern is that you might hit it something causing damage to the drain plug or possibly the engine case. Hopefully we will have a few members post some pictures and give us some feedback on this issue.

Below are a few pictures of what the kit looks like and the Fram Part number is #SD-2 M14 x 1.5




I hope this "How To" will help prevent you guys of going through the aggrevation and trouble of dealing with a "Stripped" oil drain plug.

I will add more details of how to install a "Heli-Coil" to repair a damaged oil drain plug threads.

Modded Raptor would like to thank JAMIE700R, BIGBIRD and JOHNNY BAJA
Checked today about the sure drain at my local auto parts place,they said the sure drain was prone to leaking.what gives?who has one and what do ya think?
 

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Checked today about the sure drain at my local auto parts place,they said the sure drain was prone to leaking.what gives?who has one and what do ya think?
Maybe if you leave the cap off :lol: The cap screws on over an "O" ring (finger tight) and that does not leak on mine :thumb:
 

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Damn Johnny you've just got the luck!

thanks for the write-up. I've changed my oil a half dozen times and haven't replaced that washer, I'm gonna pick a few up.

One of my friend's bikes it leaking from the crank-cask fill plug :wtf:

Shawn
 

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Tm designworks is the way to go.... makes it easy with the same size head as the reservoir.
 

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OK here's a question I need answered. Which way does the crush washer go on? I'm guessing the smooth side on the engine but maybe the groove towards the engine provides two seals on any oil?! I haven't looked yet when changing oil because I've never replaced it yet. I bought 4 now and will change it next time. Thx for info.
 

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just ordered me one.. hope it will work :))
 

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sorry for the bump but does anyone knows where can i get sd2 from or the naylon cap? seemed to disappeared from the internet.
 
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