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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After some trial and error :banghead: I realized when replacing the pads or pads and rotor on the rear brake, the piston goes in real easy on the caliper when you remove the parking brake assembly from the caliper.

I tried loosening up the parking brake adjustment, opening the bleed valve, and I was pushing on the piston with a 6" C Clamp that I use to do automotive brakes. After an hour or so and a ton of sweat and mosquito bites, I removed the parking brake assembly and the piston went right in real easy.

Save yourself some time when doing the rear brake and remove the parking brake assembly.

To get your fancy new rotor on, get out your impact wrench, remove the cotter pin from the nut that holds on the rear hub, remove the mounting nut, and pull the hub. Now your rotor will slide off and on after removing the 4 mounting bolts from the rotor. Make sure to do this step 1st so you can set your parking brake while removing the nut and hub :thumb:

I installed the Tusk Stainless Steel Typhoon rotor and EBC Severe Duty pads. I hope these suckers don't squeal like the stockers did, although my pads were paper thin when I pulled them :lol:
 

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Hopefully you didn't destroy the caliper! There is an X on the piston which you are supposed to TURN in Not PUSH in..................
 

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Yes the Caliper piston screws into the caliper
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hopefully you didn't destroy the caliper! There is an X on the piston which you are supposed to TURN in Not PUSH in..................
Thanks for pointing that out. I pushed my piston back in with a C-Clamp and I noticed it twisting when it was moving back in! Parking brake still works and the rear brake still worked as well I was pushing it, I guess the real test will be the first ride :lol:
 

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Thanks for the tip, I'll have to remember that when I change my brakes.
 

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lol yeah u did it the hard way. Shouldn't have to mess with the parking brake if you twist it with some needle nose or alike.
 

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I use a huge mfn screwdriver and it turns right in !
 

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I also clean and coat the pins with never sieze.
 

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Thanks for the tip, I'll have to remember that when I change my brakes.
do yourself a favour...get yourself the service manul for the 700r...its floating around on the "other forum" if its not already here...:) im not at home right now but when i get home i can send you the pfd files...it uses adobe reader...it'll tell you most of what you need...but some things you still have to learn the hard way....i did my rear brakes the other day and fought with them...turned out one of my pins weere seized...that was why it was giving me a hard time....now i know...hehe:rockon:
 

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Thanks, but I already have the manual at home.:beerchug:
 

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perfect...did you have it while you were doing your back brakes...? if so it shows you how to do it with the bleed line open and a pair of needle nose pliers turning clockwise...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
perfect...did you have it while you were doing your back brakes...? if so it shows you how to do it with the bleed line open and a pair of needle nose pliers turning clockwise...
I tried with the bleed line open, which didn't seem to make sense to me as I already had the cap off the reservoir, but I couldn't figure it out and the freeking manual showed opening it up. All that ended up doing was making my job longer because I had to bleed the brakes after that cuz the reservoir got too low and I thought I got air in there :banghead:

Must have read the manual too fast, I didn't notice the twisting motion.
 
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