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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so i broke down and tried to adjust the valves, Ok first Question

When finding TDC, What mark it is after the intake valves move down, the first set of two lines OR the second one line. RaptorTranny does not specify.

For what i THINK is TDC the clearance is very tight on the intake but the exhaust is perfect. I adjusted them to the spec and now when i turn the crank with the breaker bar is its a lot harder to rotate. . . IS THIS NORMAL????

PLEASE ADVISE

-Kyle
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ALSO when finding TDC its when the intake valves go down then you turn a whole turn , then the |-| or the | come right?

-Kyle
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thats what I'm using. if u read my whole post u would know that I'm reading that.

-Kyle
 

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This is from raptortranny "Once the intake valves had gone down while turning the crank counter clockwise its time to look for the timing mark on the flywheel. The I mark will come up fast so go slow, also if you go past you will have to go all the way through the strokes again. Dont go clockwise".
So yes its the "I" mark.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, Well then the other question is that.

After everything is adjusted should it now be harder to turn? I hear more air getting sucked from the air filter now

-Kyle
 

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Wow were the valves ever adjusted? And was it getting hard to start? Reason i say this is when i had my 660 it got real hard to start until i adjusted the valves. And when i did i also heard the noticeable vacuum thru the airbox. I guess my valves were that out of adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I put it back together and now it seems ok. Runs fine, I'm taking it out on Saturday to see if it mad a power difference.

-Kyle
 

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When I adjusted my valves on my 660, the intake was super tight, but just liek you the exhaust was good.

I was told this is because the two sets of valves are made of different material. The exhaust is a "hardened" valve, and the intake is not so much.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what kind of difference did it make in your performance when you adjusted them?

-Kyle
 

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that is why you have to adjust the valves, the intakes stretch and become tight and will actually float. as soon as you get a chance throw in a stage two cam and some kibble white valves, boom porblem solved
 

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I just adusted the valves on my raptor 660

its actually simpler than i thought.
take out the spark plug
start with the intake
take covers off, there is 2 plastic covers on a side of your engine, unscrew them.
spin the crank until you see the mark in the hole line up. now use your feller gage, and adjust the valves with a wrench
now spin the crank a full cycle around back to the lineup position. and do the feller gage thing on the exhaust valves.

I just bought a cdrom manual on ebay for 6 bucks. money well spent. you get all your details plus the steps on how to do it.
Good luck
And yes its a lot easier to start and its faster
 

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from the manual.. good luck

1.Remove:
 Seat
 Front fender
 Fuel tank
2.Remove:
 Tappet cover (intake) 1
 Tappet covers (exhaust) 2
3.Disconnect:
 Spark plug cap 3
4.Remove:
 Spark plug
5.Remove:
 Crankshaft end accessing screw 1
 Timing mark accessing screw 2
Checking steps:
Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise with a
wrench.
Align the “I” mark 1 on the rotor with the stationary
pointer 2 on the crankcase cover.
When the “I” mark is aligned with the stationary
pointer, the piston is at the Top Dead
Center (T.D.C.).
NOTE:
 When the piston is at the Top Dead Center
(T.D.C.) on the compression stroke, there
should be clearance between the valve stem
tips and their respective rocker arm adjusting
screws.
 If there is no clearance, rotate the crankshaft
counterclockwise one turn.

Valve clearance (cold):
Intake:
0.10 ~ 0.15 mm
(0.0039 ~ 0.0059 in)
Exhaust:
0.15 ~ 0.20 mm
(0.0059 ~ 0.0079 in)
Measure the valve clearance using a feeler
gauge 3.
***********************************************
 
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